How to Build a Wooden Laundry Folding Table for Beginners

Folding laundry on top of the washer is a losing game: the machine vibrates, the pile slides off, and half the load ends up back in the basket. Learning how to build a wooden laundry folding table for beginners solves the problem properly. This measured 56 × 28 × 36-inch (142 × 71 × 91 cm) design is a counter-height table sized to span a standard washer and dryer pair, with a smooth breadboard top for folding, a lower shelf for baskets and detergent, and locking casters so you can roll it out of the way when the machines need servicing. It is built from solid pine with simple pocket-hole joinery, no advanced tools, and no skills beyond measuring, cutting, and driving screws. In this guide, you will learn how to size the table to your own washer and dryer, choose the right wood, cut a full parts list, build the breadboard top, assemble the frame and shelf, fit the casters, and finish the surface so it survives detergent drips, damp clothes, and years of weekly laundry.

This is the measured, counter-height version of the project: a real solid-wood top made from 1×8 boards with breadboard ends that keep it flat, four sturdy legs, and aprons that make the whole table rock-solid. Most beginners finish this build in one weekend — about 5 to 6 hours of hands-on work plus drying time — and it sits comfortably alongside the other home projects in our easy woodworking projects for beginners that sell collection. The same pocket-hole method builds its workshop cousin, our guide to how to build a simple workbench for beginners, so the skills you learn here transfer straight to your next build.

What Size Folding Table Should You Build?

A laundry folding table is sized to two things: your washer and dryer, and your body. Counter height — 36 inches (91 cm) — is the standard because it matches kitchen counters and lets you fold standing up without hunching over. That height suits most adults; if you are much shorter than average, 34 inches (86 cm) may feel more comfortable, and if you are very tall, 38 inches (97 cm) is worth considering. Measure from the floor to your elbow with your arm bent at 90 degrees — the tabletop should sit about 2 to 3 inches (5 to 8 cm) below your elbow.

The width is set by your machines. A standard washer and dryer pair measures about 54 inches (137 cm) across — each machine roughly 27 inches (69 cm) wide — so this build is 56 inches (142 cm) wide, giving a 1-inch (25 mm) overhang on each side so folded clothes do not catch on the machine edges. The 28-inch (71 cm) depth matches the depth of most front-load machines, so the table can slide right up against them or roll in front of them on its casters. Before you buy lumber, measure your own machines: width across both, depth from the front to the wall, and the height of the washer lid if you have a top-loader — a top-loading washer lid needs to swing open, so the table must roll away from it, which is exactly why this design has casters.

Your setup	Table size	Why it works
Single 27 in (69 cm) washer	30 × 28 × 36 in (76 × 71 × 91 cm)	Folding space beside one machine
Standard washer + dryer pair, 54 in (137 cm)	56 × 28 × 36 in (142 × 71 × 91 cm)	Spans the pair with a 1 in overhang each side
Large-capacity pair, 56 in (142 cm)	58 × 30 × 36 in (147 × 76 × 91 cm)	Extra 2 in for wider 28 in machines
Pair on pedestals	56 × 28 × 36 in (142 × 71 × 91 cm)	Table stays at counter height beside the raised machines
Stacked washer and dryer	30 × 28 × 36 in (76 × 71 × 91 cm)	Rolls beside the stack as a folding station

Measure the room as well as the machines. Leave at least 30 inches (76 cm) of clear floor in front of the table so you can stand and fold comfortably, and check the doorway: a 56-inch table will not fit through a standard 30-inch (76 cm) interior door once it is assembled, so build it in the laundry room or be ready to remove the casters and tilt it through. If your laundry room is a tight closet, build the 30-inch version instead — it rolls in and out of a closet easily and still holds a full load of folded towels.

Choosing the Best Wood for Your Folding Table

For a first folding table, pine is the best choice: cheap, light, easy to cut and sand, and it takes stain and paint beautifully. A 56-inch pine folding table costs about $55 to $80 in lumber. Pine is soft, so it will dent if you drop a heavy detergent bottle on it — but a dent on a laundry table is a badge of use, not a flaw, and the finish in this guide protects the surface from water and detergent. If you want a harder top that resists dents and looks more like furniture, poplar is a step up: still easy to work with, machines cleanly, and costs a little more. White oak looks stunning in a laundry room, but it is heavier, harder to cut, and three to four times the price — save it for your second table.

Buy 1×8 boards (actual size ¾ × 7¼ inches, or 19 × 184 mm) for the top — four of them make the full 28-inch depth, with the last one ripped to 6¼ inches wide. Buy 2×4 boards (actual size 1½ × 3½ inches, or 38 × 89 mm) for the four legs, 1×4 boards (actual size ¾ × 3½ inches, or 19 × 89 mm) for the aprons, and 1×6 boards (actual size ¾ × 5½ inches, or 19 × 140 mm) for the bottom shelf slats. Pick straight boards by sighting down each edge, and reject any with large face knots, heavy cupping, or twisting. A knot on the underside of the top is fine; one on the top face will catch on folded clothes every time you use the table. For a deeper dive into species, grain, and cost, read our guide to the best wood for beginner woodworking projects.

Avoid reclaimed pallet wood for a folding table top: boards vary in thickness, often hide nails, and need far more sanding to become smooth enough to fold clothes on — and a rough top snags delicate fabrics. Start with clean, new pine from the lumber yard and you will finish faster with a better result. Let the boards acclimatise in your house for two to three days before you cut them — wood that moves after assembly is the number one cause of a wobbly table, and a laundry room’s humidity swings make acclimatisation even more important than usual.

Tools and Materials You Will Need

You probably own most of these tools already, and the rest can be borrowed or bought cheaply. Do not buy a tool you will use once if a neighbour or a tool library can lend it — but a decent cordless drill and a pocket-hole jig are worth owning for every furniture project after this one. The casters are the one part beginners sometimes skip; do not. A folding table that cannot roll is a table you will curse every time the washer needs servicing or the floor needs mopping behind it.

Item	Details	Typical cost
Pine 1×8 boards	4 boards, 8 ft (2.4 m) long, for the top and breadboard ends	$32–$48
Pine 2×4 boards	2 boards, 8 ft (2.4 m) long, for the four legs	$10–$16
Pine 1×4 boards	2 boards, 8 ft (2.4 m) long, for the aprons	$10–$16
Pine 1×6 boards	2 boards, 8 ft (2.4 m) long, for the bottom shelf slats	$10–$16
Pine 1×2 board	1 board, 8 ft (2.4 m) long, for the shelf supports	$3–$5
Pocket-hole screws	1¼ in (32 mm) coarse-thread, about 50 screws	$6–$10
Wood glue	One 8 oz (237 ml) bottle	$5–$8
Pocket-hole jig	Single-hole or two-hole jig with drill bit	$25–$40
Swivel casters with brakes	3 in (76 mm), 4-pack, screw-plate mount	$14–$20
Sandpaper	80, 120, and 220 grit sheets	$5–$8
Finish	Wipe-on polyurethane, water-resistant, 1 pint (0.47 L)	$10–$16
Tools	Circular saw, drill, sander, tape measure, square, clamps	$0 if owned
Total (56 in, pine)	Lumber, screws, glue, casters, finish	$130–$200

Safety gear matters too: safety glasses, hearing protection for the saw, and a dust mask for sanding — pine dust is an irritant. Apply the finish outside or in a well-ventilated garage, and keep oil-soaked rags flat to dry outdoors until stiff, then throw them away — bunched-up oily rags can self-heat. In a laundry room, keep the finished table away from the dryer vent while the finish cures: warm, humid air slows curing and can leave the surface tacky.

Cut List for a 56 × 28 × 36-Inch Folding Table

This cut list is for a table 56 inches (142 cm) wide, 28 inches (71 cm) deep, and 36 inches (91 cm) tall, with a breadboard top, four legs, front, back, and side aprons, a slatted bottom shelf, and four 3-inch casters. Cut the top boards first, then the legs, then the aprons and shelf parts — and always measure twice before every cut.

Part	Material	Size	Quantity
Top planks	1×8 pine	56 in (142 cm) long	3
Top filler plank	1×8 pine, ripped to 6¼ in (159 mm) wide	56 in (142 cm) long	1
Breadboard ends	1×8 pine	28 in (71 cm) long	2
Legs	2×4 pine	32¼ in (82 cm) long	4
Long aprons (front and back)	1×4 pine	49 in (124 cm) long	2
Side aprons	1×4 pine	25 in (64 cm) long	2
Bottom shelf slats	1×6 pine	49 in (124 cm) long	3
Shelf supports	1×2 pine	25 in (64 cm) long	2

The top is 28 inches deep because three 1×8 boards (7¼ inches each) plus one filler plank ripped to 6¼ inches adds up to exactly 28 inches: 7¼ + 7¼ + 7¼ + 6¼ = 28. The legs are 32¼ inches long because the ¾-inch top and the 3-inch casters sit above and below them to reach the full 36-inch height: 32¼ + ¾ + 3 = 36. The long aprons are 49 inches long because they fit between the two legs: 56 inches minus two 3½-inch leg widths. The side aprons are 25 inches long for the same reason: 28 inches minus two 1½-inch leg thicknesses. The three shelf slats are 49 inches long and sit on the two shelf supports, leaving small gaps between them so dust and lint fall through instead of collecting on the shelf.

Step 1: Measure and Mark Your Boards

Careful measuring comes first, because every later step depends on it. Lay your boards on a flat workbench and check each one for straightness. Mark the straightest face of every top plank with a small pencil tick — that face goes up, where folded clothes rest and where everyone sees it. Then measure and mark each cut with a pencil and a speed square, drawing the cut line squarely across the full width of the board.

Label every piece as you mark it: “Top 1”, “Top 2”, “Top 3”, “Filler”, “Breadboard A” and “Breadboard B”, “Leg A” through “Leg D”, “Apron Front”, “Apron Back”, “Apron Side” twice, “Shelf 1” through “Shelf 3”, and “Support” twice. The four top planks look identical, so the labels stop you mixing up a plank you already checked for straightness with one you have not. Next, mark the apron positions on the legs: the top edge of each apron sits ¾ inch (19 mm) below the top of the leg, so the top rests on the legs, not on the aprons. Mark all four legs at the same time, clamped together, so the aprons sit perfectly level. Mark the shelf supports too: they sit 6 inches (15 cm) above the bottom of the legs, so the shelf clears the casters and the floor. Finally, measure your washer and dryer pair once more and confirm the 56-inch width. If anything has changed, adjust the top plank and apron lengths now, not after the saw is running.

Step 2: Cut the Boards to Size

Clamp a straight board or a speed square to your workpiece as a saw guide, and set the circular saw depth so the blade cuts about ¼ inch (6 mm) past the bottom of the board — no deeper. Cut slowly and steadily, letting the saw do the work; pushing hard causes burning and wandering cuts. Cut the four top planks first — the longest pieces, and the ones where a square cut matters most — then the two breadboard ends, then the four legs, then the aprons, shelf slats, and supports.

The filler plank needs ripping to width: a 1×8 board is 7¼ inches wide, and you need 6¼ inches. Clamp a straightedge 6¼ inches from the edge and run the circular saw along it, or ask the lumber yard to rip it when you buy the boards — most yards will do one rip cut free. After cutting, dry-fit the four top planks edge to edge on the workbench and check the total depth: it should be exactly 28 inches. A small error here — even ⅛ inch (3 mm) — is easy to fix now by trimming the filler plank, and almost impossible to fix after the pocket holes are drilled. Sand the cut ends lightly with 80-grit paper to remove splinters and saw marks. Keep your offcuts: a short piece of 1×8 makes a perfect stain test piece, and a scrap of 2×4 is ideal for setting up the pocket-hole jig. The offcuts from the 8-foot 1×8 boards are long enough for the two 28-inch breadboard ends, so check your offcut pile before you cut into a fresh board.

Step 3: Build the Breadboard Top with Pocket Holes

The top planks join edge to edge with pocket holes on the underside, and the breadboard ends cap the two short ends to keep the wide top flat through the laundry room’s humidity swings. Set your pocket-hole jig for ¾-inch (19 mm) stock and drill three pocket holes along each long edge of the two middle top planks, and three along the facing edge of each outer plank, all on the underside face that will never be seen. Drill two pocket holes at each end of both long aprons and both side aprons, also on their hidden faces.

Test the jig setting on a scrap plank first: the screw should stop just short of poking through the top face. If the screw tip shows, lower the drill collar one notch and test again. Now join the top: lay the planks face down on the workbench, edges together, spread a thin bead of glue along each joint, and drive 1¼-inch (32 mm) coarse-thread pocket-hole screws through the holes. Clamp the planks flat while you drive the screws — a top glued up with a twist will rock on the frame forever. Wipe away squeezed-out glue immediately with a barely damp cloth; dried glue on the top face shows up as a pale blotch under the finish and snags fabric.

The breadboard ends are what make this a proper folding table top rather than just four planks. Each breadboard end is a 28-inch piece of 1×8 that caps the end grain of the top planks, running across the grain. Drill three pocket holes along the inside face of each breadboard end, spread glue on the end grain of the top planks, and screw the breadboard ends on — but only glue the middle third of each end. The outer screws go through slightly elongated holes, or are driven into the outer planks only, so the top can expand and contract across its width with the seasons while the breadboard ends hold it flat. A laundry room swings between damp and dry every week, so this detail matters more here than it would on a desk in a dry office. Finally, screw two support cleats across the underside of the top, one near each end, with the grain of the cleats running across the planks — they lock the planks together and add a second line of defence against cupping.

Step 4: Assemble the Frame, Shelf and Casters

With the top glued up, build the base. Lay two legs flat on the workbench with the 3½-inch faces pointing up, and set a long apron between them on its pencil lines, ¾ inch below the tops of the legs. Spread a thin bead of glue on each apron end, then drive the pocket-hole screws through the apron into the legs — two screws per end. Work with a square in hand, checking that each apron sits at 90 degrees to the legs. Clamps hold everything tight while you drive the screws; with only two clamps, fix one joint at a time and move the clamps along.

Repeat for the second pair of legs, then stand both leg pairs upright and fit the two side aprons between them the same way, working from the top down so gravity helps keep the aprons seated. Next, fit the shelf supports: screw the two 1×2 supports to the inside faces of the legs, 6 inches above the bottom of the legs, one on each side of the table. Lay the three shelf slats across the supports with a small gap — about ½ inch (13 mm) — between each slat, and screw them down from above with short 1-inch (25 mm) screws. The gaps let lint and dust fall through instead of collecting, and they make the shelf lighter to look at from across the room. Set the frame on a flat floor and press down on each corner in turn. If it rocks, find the long leg and trim it — never shim a table, because shims work loose and it will wobble again. Check the frame for square by measuring diagonally across the top — the two measurements should match within ⅛ inch (3 mm). If they do not, loosen the screws on one corner, rack the frame square, and re-tighten.

Now fit the casters, and do this before the top goes on, while the frame is still easy to flip over. Turn the frame upside down on the workbench. Each caster has a flat mounting plate with four screw holes: centre the plate on the bottom of each leg, mark the holes, pre-drill with a small bit, and drive the screws the caster pack supplies — usually ¾-inch (19 mm) screws that bite without poking through the side of the leg. Put the two casters with brakes on the same side of the table, the front side you stand at when folding, so you can lock the table with two taps of your foot and unlock it just as easily. Spin each caster and lock each brake before you move on: a caster that does not swivel freely now will drag and scuff the floor later, and a brake that does not hold will let the table drift every time the washer spins.

Step 5: Attach the Top, Sand and Finish Your Folding Table

Set the top face down on the workbench and lower the leg frame onto it upside down, lining up the legs flush with the top edges. Drive short screws up through the aprons into the top — 1-inch (25 mm) screws, so they bite without poking through the top surface — two screws per apron, plus screws through the support cleats. Do not glue the top to the frame: the top needs to move slightly with the seasons, and screws alone let it do that without cracking. Flip the table right side up, lock the caster brakes, and check it on a flat floor once more.

Sanding is where a beginner build starts to look professional, so do not rush it. Sand the top in three passes: 80 grit to level the plank joints and remove saw marks, 120 grit to smooth the surface, and 220 grit for a silky final finish. Always sand with the grain, never across it, and round over the front edge of the top slightly with 120-grit paper — your forearms rest on that edge while you fold, and a sharp edge is uncomfortable and snags fabric. Vacuum or wipe the dust off with a tack cloth between grits; dust left behind shows up as rough spots under the finish. Our full guide, how to sand and finish wood for beginners, walks through grit progression and common sanding mistakes in detail.

A laundry table top needs a tougher finish than a decorative oil, because it meets damp clothes, detergent drips, and the occasional splash from the washer every week. A wipe-on polyurethane is the most forgiving choice: it builds a hard, waterproof film that shrugs off detergent and is easy to repair later with a light sanding and one more coat. Apply three thin coats, sanding lightly with 220-grit paper between coats, and pay special attention to the front edge and the breadboard ends, where hands and baskets wear the finish fastest. If you prefer an oil look, use a hard-wax oil rated for floors or tabletops, at least three coats, letting each cure fully. Avoid plain Danish oil unless you are happy to re-oil every few months — it looks beautiful but is not waterproof enough for a laundry room. If you want colour, stain first, let it dry fully for 24 hours, then seal it with polyurethane. Let the final coat cure for at least 72 hours before you load the table with laundry — a finish that feels dry is not the same as a finish that has cured hard, and damp towels on a soft finish will leave marks that never come out.

Finishing Options Compared

Finish	Water resistance	Coats needed	Best for
Wipe-on polyurethane	Excellent	3 thin coats	Detergent drips, damp clothes, daily laundry use
Hard-wax oil	Good	3 coats	Natural look, easy spot repairs
Paint (semi-gloss)	Excellent	Primer + 2 coats	Matching laundry room trim, hiding pine grain
Spar urethane	Excellent	3 thin coats	High-humidity laundry rooms, maximum water protection
Danish oil	Fair	2–3 coats	Light-use tables, decorative look only
Stain + polyurethane	Excellent	Stain + 3 coats	Matching existing woodwork

Styling Your Finished Folding Table

Once the finish has cured, roll the table into place beside your washer and dryer, lock the caster brakes, and load it up. The top is your folding station: stack freshly dried towels in neat piles, fold shirts straight from the dryer while they are still warm, and keep a small basket at one end for socks and small items. The bottom shelf holds a laundry basket, a bottle of detergent, and a box of dryer sheets — everything within reach, nothing on the floor. If you want wall storage above it, our guide to how to build floating shelves for beginners makes a matching weekend project that sits perfectly over a folding table.

To keep the top looking new, wipe detergent drips straight away with a barely damp cloth and dry it immediately, use a small tray or mat under the detergent bottle, and add a fresh coat of polyurethane once a year, or whenever water stops beading on the surface. Unlock the casters once a month and roll the table out to mop the floor behind it — that is the whole point of the casters, and it keeps the laundry room from growing a dust line along the wall. A table built this way will last for years, and because it is sized to your machines, it will fit your next laundry room too — just check the doorways before moving day. If your laundry room needs a bigger bench for heavier projects, the same pocket-hole method builds its workshop cousin, our guide to how to build a simple workbench for beginners.

Casters, Brakes and Final Details

The casters are what make this table genuinely useful in a laundry room, so give them a final check before you call the build done. Roll the table across the floor and listen: it should glide quietly, with all four wheels turning freely. Lock both brakes and push the table from the side — it should not move at all. If a brake slips, check that the caster plate is screwed down tight and that the brake lever engages fully; a loose plate lets the caster twist and defeats the brake. If one wheel drags, lift the table and spin it by hand — a hair or a thread wrapped around the axle is the usual culprit in a laundry room, and it takes ten seconds to clear.

Check the whole table one last time before you call it done. Run your hand along the front edge — it should feel smoothly rounded, with no sharp corners to snag clothes. Stand at the table and rest your forearms on the top: your elbows should sit at roughly 90 degrees, and the height should feel like a kitchen counter, not a desk. Push the table gently from the side: it should feel solid, with no racking or wobble, and the brakes should hold it still. If the top overhangs the legs unevenly, loosen the apron screws, shift the frame, and re-tighten. If the table rocks on an uneven laundry room floor, trim the long leg rather than shimming it — and remember the casters themselves add a little give, so check the rock with the brakes locked on the floor where the table will actually live. These last ten minutes of checking are what separate a table that feels shop-bought from one that feels homemade.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Most problems come from rushing one of these seven steps — slow down here and the rest of the build goes smoothly.

Building the wrong height. A table built to a number instead of your body will hurt your shoulders within a week. Stand with your arm bent at 90 degrees and measure to your elbow, then build the top 2 to 3 inches below it.

Sizing to the wrong machines. A table built for a 54-inch pair will not span a 56-inch large-capacity pair. Measure your own washer and dryer before you buy lumber, including the depth — a table deeper than the machines sticks out into the room.

Skipping the dry fit. A bowed top plank hides until the screws are in. Lay out the top, check the total depth is exactly 28 inches, and mark the arrangement first.

Drilling pocket holes on the wrong face. Pocket holes go on the underside of the top planks and the hidden faces of the aprons. One plank flipped the wrong way leaves visible holes on the top of your folding table.

Gluing the breadboard ends solid. Breadboard ends must let the top expand and contract across its width. Glue only the middle third and let the outer joints float, or the top will crack in the laundry room’s humidity swings.

Forgetting the glue. Pocket screws alone will loosen under daily use. Glue every joint, and the screws mainly hold everything tight while it cures.

Gluing the top to the frame. The top needs to move slightly with the seasons. Screw it down through the aprons and cleats, but never glue it to the frame, or it can crack.

Rushing the finish. Polyurethane over dust or a skipped grit looks blotchy forever, and a laundry room punishes a weak finish fast. Sand through the grits, clean the dust, and let each coat cure fully — 72 hours before the first load of damp towels.

How Much Does It Cost and How Long Does It Take?

For a 56-inch pine folding table, expect $130 to $200 in materials if you already own the tools — roughly a third of a comparable solid wood laundry table in a shop, sized exactly to your machines and your room. A 30-inch single-machine version is closer to $90 to $140, and a hardwood version costs two to three times more in lumber alone. Time-wise, plan 5 to 6 hours of hands-on work over one weekend: half an hour to measure and mark, half an hour to cut, an hour to drill the pocket holes and join the top with its breadboard ends, an hour and a half to assemble the frame, shelf, and casters, an hour to sand, and half an hour to finish, plus overnight glue drying and 72 hours for the final coat to cure. The same skills transfer directly to your next furniture project — a matching set of floating shelves, a workbench, or a desk all use the same cuts, aprons, and pocket-hole joints.

Frequently Asked Questions

How tall should a laundry folding table be?

Counter height — 36 inches (91 cm) — is the standard for a laundry folding table, because it matches kitchen counters and lets you fold standing up without hunching. The personal rule is simple: stand with your arm bent at 90 degrees, measure from the floor to your elbow, and build the top 2 to 3 inches (5 to 8 cm) below that. If you are much shorter than average, 34 inches may suit you better; if you are very tall, try 38 inches.

How wide should a folding table be for a washer and dryer?

Measure across both machines and add 2 inches (5 cm) — 1 inch of overhang on each side. A standard washer and dryer pair measures about 54 inches (137 cm) across, so the table in this guide is 56 inches (142 cm) wide. A large-capacity pair with 28-inch machines needs a 58-inch table, and a single machine needs only a 30-inch table.

What is the best wood for a laundry folding table?

Pine is the best wood for a first folding table: it is cheap, light, easy to cut and sand, and it takes stain and paint well. Poplar is a good upgrade if you want a harder top that resists dents from detergent bottles. Save white oak and walnut for a later project, once you are confident with the pocket-hole joinery and the breadboard ends.

Do I really need breadboard ends on the top?

They are strongly recommended for a laundry room, because the wide plank top would otherwise cup as humidity swings between damp and dry every week. The breadboard ends cap the end grain and hold the top flat, while the floating outer joints let the top expand and contract without cracking. If you skip them, at least fit the two support cleats across the underside of the top.

Are pocket-hole screws strong enough for a folding table?

Yes — for the apron-to-leg joints in this design, pocket-hole screws combined with wood glue are more than strong enough: the glue carries most of the load once it cures, and the screws hold everything tight while it dries. Use coarse-thread screws in softwood like pine. The casters carry the rolling load, and the aprons spread the weight across all four legs.

Should a laundry folding table have casters?

Yes, if you can fit them. Casters let you roll the table away from the machines to open a top-loading washer lid, service the washer, or mop the floor behind it. Use 3-inch swivel casters with brakes, put the braked pair on the front side, and lock them whenever you fold — an unlocked table drifts every time the washer spins.

How do I protect a wooden folding table from water and detergent?

Finish the top with three thin coats of wipe-on polyurethane, which builds a hard, waterproof film that shrugs off detergent drips and damp clothes. Wipe up spills straight away, keep the detergent bottle on a small tray, and refresh the finish once a year or whenever water stops beading on the surface. Spar urethane is an even tougher option for very humid laundry rooms.

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